Thursday, July 14, 2016

Jakar or Byakar Dzong



The dzong is situated on the ridge overlooking the Chamkhar village. It is about half an hour walk from the Chamkhar town.

Tibetan Saint Lam Ngagi Wangchuk, who came to Bhutan to preach the Drukpa Kagyu teaching, saw a white bird landed at the site where the present dzong is located, considering it an auspicious omen lam constructed small temple on the site in 1549. Later the temple was expanded and turned into dzong by 13th Desi Chogyel Minjur Tempa in 1646. Locals too have the oral source, they believe that small fort was built at Bumthang valley and the location was not strategic point, a group of lamas, elders, and astrologer gathered to discuss the appropriate location. At the very moment a white bird considered being the king of geese flew in the air and landed at the spur. Considering it a good omen the present dzong was built and named it “Byakar Dzong”- the Dzong of a white bird.

After the construction, and arrival of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel in the Bhutan in the 17th century, the Tibetan ruler Phuntsho Namgyel, sent an army for two times to destroy Zhabdrung. During those campaigns the dzong was partially damaged but it was soon renovated by Trongsa Penlop.

Another invasion faced by the dzong was the campaign from the former chieftain of Bumthang who fled to Tibet after his defeat. He gathered large number of force from Tibet and camped at the nearby hills in Bumthang. During those days Bhutan didn’t have any instituted arm force to fight back. They seek help from protecting deities-Chechong Chamdral Sum. People say, the prayers were heard and one of the guns kept on the window sill aimed to the Tibetan camp itself and shot, killing two commanders of Tibet. The Bhutanese won the battle and the dzong was named “Jakar Thobgyel Dzong (Thob-get, Gyal-Victory).  

Another invasion was encountered by the dzong during the time of 13th Desi Minjur Tempa; a difficult battle was won with the help of Lam Ngawang Rabten’s force. Thereafter, the dzong was renamed as ‘Jakar Yugyal Dzong’, Victorious fortress of the White Bird.

The unique feature that makes the dzong distinct from other dzongs is its 50 meter high Utse or the central tower which is located at the outside of the wall of the dzong, therefore, the dzong has no way to circumambulate other than walking around the dzong. We can walk around the outer walls of the dzong but the basement of the Utse is not visible, it is because in 1897 an earthquake damaged the dzong severely and was built bit smaller than the original. The other unique feature of the dzong is the shelter passage with two parallel wall interconnected by fortified tower which gave way to access water in case of blockade. Still today the protected water supply is still in use.

The dzong houses the wall painting of Chana Dorji (Vajrapani) and life of Milarepa (the Yogi of Tibet). The dzong has few wood carving compared to other dzongs of Bhutan, and most of the timbers and pillars are decorated with painting.

The goenkhang is at the upper floor of the Utse. On the either sides of the entrance of the goenkhang, the body of human being is hanged, apparently skinned. The main statue of the floor below Lama Lhakhang is the shrine of Dolma (Tara) accompanied by Chenrezig (Avalokitesvara) on the left, and Mithukpa (Akshobya) on the right.

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